It’s not as difficult as you imagine! If you’re willing to practice, you’ll be able to get it down quickly. It’s also an enjoyable activity to do after a long and tiring day If you enjoy making crafts while watching TV as well as listening to podcasts. The majority of my evenings are spent stitching!
In this instructional video, I’ll go over the running stitch, back stitch Split stitch, satin stitch stem stitch, French knots, fill stitches, and seed stitches. These stitches form the foundation of embroidery. There are tons of more sophisticated stitches to be found as well. After you’ve learned the embroidery stitches taught in this tutorial, I highly suggest searching on Google or visiting the library to study additional stitches. They’re addictive.
Step 1: What you’ll need to Begin with Embroidering
- To begin embroidering it, you’ll require these things:
- embroidery hoops – this is a ring that is made up of two pieces. The fabric is placed between the hoops. This keeps it in place which makes embroidering easier. They are available in plastic as well as wood. I like plastic for embroidery and wood to display the embroidery.
- small, sharp scissors. These are sold under a variety of names, but you can search Google for “embroidery cutting tools” will yield the exact item you’re looking for.
- Choose your favorite fabric! Linen, quilting fabric, canvas, and osnaburg are all fantastic options! It shouldn’t be too loosely weaved or too tight.
- embroidery floss. It is inexpensive and is available with TONS in a variety of shades. I like DMC floss and I use it for all of my projects.
- embroidery needles. They have larger eyes than regular needles in order to allow for the length of the thread.
- Water-soluble markers or other marking tools. You can then create designs on your fabric! It’s recommended that you make use of a water-soluble pen, so that you can wash the designs using cold water after.
- Any fabric you’d like! Muslin or quilting cotton linen and canvas all work great. I prefer to stitch on linen blends.
Step 2: how to Make a Hoop for Embroidery
- The embroidery hoops are available in various varieties, but the basic circular wooden and plastic hoops are the most commonly used. They can be found in most craft shops.
- Cut an inch of fabric that is slightly larger than the size of your hoops.
- In the beginning you must loosen the screw located near the bottom of the hoops. Then, you’ll divide the hoops. Set the hoop on the side. We’ll think about it later!
- (If the plastic hoops, the inside of the hoop has an opening. The lip could be placed over at the very top, or be hung below the bottom. It’s your choice! The last image shows the method I use to assemble my hoops made of plastic.)
- Place the piece fabric on top of the plain inside of the hoop.
- Once you’ve placed the fabric on the inside hoop, pull the top hoop to the side over the bottom one. The fabric will be snared between the two. You’ll need to make sure that the screw is tightened and then start pulling the fabric tight. The fabric that’s floating between hoops shouldn’t give much. This makes embroidering more complicated than it has to be.
- When the fabric has tucked in, continue tightening your screw till it is solid to your touch. But not so tight that you’re unable to ease it! It will be a regret after you’ve stitched for a couple of hours and your aching fingers aren’t able to lift the hoop.
Step 3: Threading the Needle and All About Floss
Threading needles can be a bit complicated at times. The easiest way to accomplish this is to dampen the part of the thread (yes place it into the mouth.) Then, squeeze it between your forefinger and thumb. It will then flatten and let it pass across the eye without much hassle.
Keep in mind that you shouldn’t duplicate the floss, as you do with thread. Simply pull the thread through your eye and let some inches of it hang in the air. Then, you’ll tie the other end the same way. (And be sure to take off any loose threads after you tie the knot. It will improve the neatness of your work! Do not leave more than 12 inches of space behind the knot or it’ll become tangled as you stitch.)
The majority of floss is multi-strand. The most commonly used floss is made up of six strands. The floss can be divided to do more intricate work. The most effective method to accomplish this is using your fingernails to divide the strands, and then pull it apart in a slow and steady manner.
Step 4: How to Do the Running Stitch
It’s just like regular sewing. It is possible to stitch shorter or longer or even randomly placed based on the design you want to create.
I like this stitch to frame and embroider designs and for any other items that require a feeling of light and airy. I wouldn’t recommend it particularly for text because it may seem a bit apprehensive.
You can choose to follow the standard upward and downward motion, you can push the needle in and create multiple stitches in one go. For those who are new to embroidering I suggest using the method of up and down until you get knack of spacing.
Step 5: How to Do the Backstitch
- Make sure you bring your needle towards the edge of the fabric. Then turn to your right.
- Return the needle towards the fabric in front a long stitch to your left and then thread the needle towards the rear of the material through the hole that is at the end of the initial stitch. (As illustrated in the second photograph)
- Make use of the hole that is located at the bottom of the rightmost stitch to return the needle toward the centre of your cloth.
- Repeat until you’re done!
Backstitch can be done to either the left or right side – but you should try it on the left initially to get the pattern down. So long as you maintain your stitches in even lengths, they will look fantastic!
Step 6: How to Do the Split Stitch
This is a fantastic design for a raised, decorative stitch. It is a lot as a backstitch, and functions exactly like one.
I employ this technique when I’m looking to give things some texture. For instance, the frosting on cupcakes or the top of a tree, flowers or the outline of fuzzy animals, etc.
To make this stitch, draw the thread upwards and create a small stitch (no larger than the size of a grain of rice!). You’ll then pull it back to the center of the stitch, and then pull it back down the fabric just a few inches away from the direction you’re heading into. It’s recommended to make sure your stitch is small (1/8 to an inch or 1/4 inch.) When you do this, your stitches will look messy and won’t be able to be as curvy as you’d like.
Step 7: How to Make a French Knot
- French knots are thought to be a real nightmare for many embroiderers; however, I am in love with these knots. They’re delicate and adorable and don’t appear exactly the same.
- Their dimensions can also differ dramatically, and they can be used in a variety of ways. (Check the first image for the top row – its French knots created with six floss strands wrapped at once, and on the second row, knots are tied twice!) They can be used for the flower’s center as eyes, for dots or polka dots and even as lines, if you’re at ease. They are what I use frequently when I dot the i’s of text.
- To tie a French knot with success it is necessary be following these instructions:
- The floss should be pulled through towards the back of the material.
- The floss is wrapped between the needle and the fabric around the needle 1 2 or three times. (One time is considered a tiny knot, two is medium and three is large.)
- Hold the floss tight to ensure that it wraps tightly around the needle.
- using the other hand with your other hand, push the needle into where it is close to the point where the floss grew.
- Keep the floss taut, then pull the needle through the entire length.
- try this out hundreds of times until it’s natural.
Step 8: How to do the stem stitch
The stem stitch is great for vines, branches, flowers, and even outlines. It’s also amazing for text, but it is important to be aware of sharp edges.
The stem stitch is like a backstitch however, instead of linking stitches at the ends of the stitch, you’ll be bringing the needle towards the next stitch close to the previous stitch.
Create a small stitch approximately the size of a grain of rice. Re-insert the needle through the fabric on either the left or right side of the stitch you made about halfway to the finish of that stitch, as illustrated in the second image. Make sure to continue with your stitches from the opposite side of the stitches you’ve already put down.
The stitch is the easiest to learn using lines. If you attempt it without lines, it can be difficult to determine the exact point at which each stitch should finish.
Step 9: How to do the satin stitch
- Satin stitch is perfect for adding large colours to embroideries by creating the letters and shapes, as well as everything else!
- Satin stitch can be made in a variety of ways. It is possible to outline a shape by backstitching it and stitch it into. It is possible to do satin stitch in its own without an outline. It is also possible to backstitch an outline and then apply satin stitch over it completely to create a slightly raised area.
- For a practice of satin stitch begin by drawing a simple outline onto your cloth. After that, you’ll use a backstitch to outline the shape. You’ll then move back and forth over the pattern (I always prefer starting with center, however that’s an individual preference.) until the shape is filled in.
- Retry it by using the two other ways!
- One of the two main features of Satin stitch is:
- getting as close as you can to the outline to ensure you can ensure that the stitch appears beautiful and full. You can always come back to make up for those spots that are bald by using straight stitches and seed, however it’s much easier to do it right the very first second time!
- Don’t keep your satin stitch to the reverse of your piece. This will waste your thread, making your job look bulky! To prevent this from happening take your thread back to the front the first time, right in front of the outline to the left. Then, you can bring it across and back on the right side of the outline. Instead of crossing to the left side of the outline at the reverse of the fabric, bring the needle back towards the place it was when you pushed it through. So, you’ll be saving the thread as well as time.
Step 10: How do you make straight and seed stitches
Embroidery kits are like running stitches. You’re not following a straight line! The location is typically random.
Straight stitches differ in length and are perfect to add plenty of texture. Seed stitches are tiny and you’ll only be catching one or two threads using these! Seed stitches are typically used to fill spaces in. Straight stitch can be employed for many different tasks – filling in and adding depth shading, etc.